Pearce Flint budgerigars

I have bred over 200 chicks in the last 2 years.

Before you read below, you must understand that the hen and cock should both be over 8 months, and both be in condition with no health problems.

The adult cocks are placed into a breeding cage and the adult hens are placed into another. Both cages are side by side so the cocks and hens can talk to each other but cannot mate. These birds are fed a high quality diet, including egg food, cuttlefish, calcium and iodine and calcivet. This will prepare them for mating and egg raising.

After 2 weeks of no mating, the pairs are then chosen, and put in the cage with their mate (opposite sex of course). Their diet is then upgraded further, they are fed hulled oats and groats with their normal seed and everything else.

9/10 times the hen will lay an egg within 16 days after being placed with the cock. The egg then takes 18 days to hatch, from the date the hen starts incubating. Once the chicks hatch, the hen and cock are given even more calcivet, this makes it easier for the parent to cope, and makes the chicks nice and healthy.

The chicks will grow very very fast, and are free to leave the care of the parents at around 42 days old.

At aproximatley 8 days of age, the chick will stick its head up and its eyes will open. At 20-21 days of age, the mother can be removed and the dad can take care of the chicks. At 35 days of age the chicks should all be eating by themselves, and no longer need to be fed by mum or dad.

Necessary items needed in a breeding cabinet.

Their are many things needed in a breeding cabinet, I am going to name the most important ones that I have in my cabinets.

• Water
• Seed dish
• Soft food dish
• Extra seed dish (for hulled oats or sunflowers)
• Calcium and iodine bell
• Finger draw (for vitamins and minerals)
• 2 perches front to back
• Hideout for babies (a ice cream container with a hole cut out will suffice)
• Nest box
• Slide out tray with sand or newspaper to get rid of the mess

You only get out what you put in